Tim
1849 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Worn diff or cv joint
Are you sure it's not the engine rocking back and forth - did you replace the bushes on the engine stabiliser(s)?
Posted: Aug 10, 2010 06:25 PM
Chris Carr
3 posts
Joined: 12/06/2008 11:20:02
Location: London United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Clutch issue // shudder
Hi Tim,
Its def not egine mounts as this would happen once warm and also ive changed and had loads of experience with the bushes and also the mounts. Its something ive never had before.
It happens through all gears. if i didnt know any better id say the clutch might be going.... ?
Also - just realised... the clutch that is in there is NEW as it was replaced in a big overhaul i had done. its probally only done about 50 miles...?
chris
Is this pulling away in first, or when changing gear?
Judder when pulling away is usually a symptom of worn engine mounts and top engine stabiliser bushes, rather than a problem with the clutch itself. It's one of the weak areas of the mini's transverse engine layout. If you look at a modern transverse engine car (i.e. virtually any small family car) you will see they usually have two massive top engine stabilisers, one at each end of the engine block, rather than the mini's pathetic little one!
You can also get clutch judder caused by oil leaking onto the surface of the clutch and getting 'glazed', but with a mini if you do get an oil leak there it's more likely to cause clutch slip.
Having said that, I don't know why it should be ok when cold, and only starts when warmed up.
Posted: May 24, 2011 01:19 PM
Engine movement issues
The lower stabilizer bushes should be the same as the upper ones. You should check the two engine mountings as well - with the engine weight sitting on them you can't really tell if they're failing, so you need to try and lever the engine upwards on both sides - you may well find that the rubber has disintegrated completely.
Posted: May 04, 2009 10:43 PM
Simon@minispares.com
94 posts
Joined: 08/09/2004 21:32:29
Location: fdgfghgfjgj United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Bush's
The top engine stabiliser has rubber bushs, dependant on year of car, should have 4 bushs. We have the poly bushs on here, check part number C-STR630
Posted: Nov 21, 2004 08:58 PM
Roy
261 posts
Joined: 19/09/2005 19:34:20
Location: huntingdon United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
foot off accelerator...and a bang
sounds like your engine stabilizer bushes! or could be subframe mounts in extreme cases but they would have to be VERY loose and your steering would be all over the place as well so sort out your stabilizer bushes and you will be fine but if you have tuned your engine to any degree then you will be well advised to fit additional stabilzer bars..
mouldy seat belts!.... sounds like a damp problem (Der!) but some of that stuff they sell for bathroom mould should do the trick!
Posted: Dec 12, 2006 08:20 PM
John
1948 posts
Joined: 28/05/2006 16:49:46
Location: cambridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
stange knocking
yes can be done iv not done it tho my mate did b4 on his mini. but on my mini i had bad engine mounts was still ok but adds to the movement a little bit. top steady bar which normally causes the trouble its over stressed bushes are too small for load they are under. alot of people add extra stabilisers to thermostate end of head these help with high powered minis. gearbox steadys help bit but dont do alot really as rocking is at top. i was talking to a mecanic about it he said he used to replace the steady rubbers every 2 years on his highly tuned 1275 gt in the 70's so its nuthing new.
Posted: Feb 08, 2008 10:07 PM
gatter91
19 posts
Joined: 07/01/2008 20:55:29
Location: Swindon United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Just a quickie, over the last few weeks ive been encountering quite a significant amount of engine movement and i'm wondering what it may be due to? A while ago i had a similar problem that was due to the engine stabiliser bar attached to the bulkhead coming away from the body, but i had it re-welded back on with a set of new poly bushes at the engine and bulkhead end. Could it now be due to the bushes at the stabiliser bar at the front on the gearbox having gone? As i expect they may have gone due to the excess movement last time. If so, what is the part number for the lower bushes?/are they the same as the upper ones? The other thing was whilst browsing possibilities on here, i found these; 21A1902MS and im wondering whether they'd make much difference and how hard theyd be to fit?
Also, if it helps, it's an '85 998 :)
cheers again :)
Posted: May 04, 2009 08:46 PM
Andy
2 posts
Joined: 03/11/2004 21:35:59
Location: United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
engine poly bushes
Posted: Nov 23, 2004 03:11 PM
roblawrence
Joined: 11/10/2004 12:26:54
Knocking from the engine bay on tip-in and tip-out.
My mini, a 1991 Mini Cooper, has recently developed a knocking noise on tip-in and tip-out (when I put my foot down to full throttle and again when I let off). I had a look at all the engine stabilser bars and bushes. All the bushes are intact, but the lower stabiliser bar bracket (to subframe) had sheared, and so I thought I had found the problem. After replacing the bracket, the knocking is still there. I have just found that the bracket on rod change gearbox to hold the exhaust was also sheared and missing a bolt. I have placed a home made bracket in its place for the time being, but the knocking still remains. Im running out of ideas....please help me......
Posted: Dec 22, 2004 02:25 PM
auther rocks
24 posts
Joined: 02/01/2005 17:19:15
Location: tamworth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
clearence
I fitted a new cone filter recently and found when i put my foot down it would knock the bulkhead. I found the problem was that my lower stabilizer bracket had snapped, causing the engine to shift. I ordered and fitted a new bracket, also renewed the bushes in the top bracket. Problem solved! Im not sure if the engine would move so much to cause your clearence problems, but its worth a look.
Posted: Jun 20, 2005 07:44 PM
47 posts
Joined: 13/06/2009 09:45:54
Location: TRONCENS France
Jumping out of reverse gear
Hi Taffy, The engine is absolutely spot on. All mountings, stabiliser bushes, subframe bushes etc are new....
Posted: Aug 29, 2009 02:05 PM
Trevor King
7 posts
Joined: 25/10/2008 00:37:15
Location: Pontefract United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
jumping out of 2nd gear
Yes they're all ok it has poly bushes in the top stabiliser and rubbers in both the gearbox stabiliser and the ultimate engine steady and the engine mounts were changed in september,so it looks like what ricky said and the baulk rings are wearing.
Posted: Dec 31, 2009 08:35 PM
cluth removal
I can't give you the exact figures, but the difference between a new plate and a worn out one is only a few mm.
Another cause of judder is worn engine mountings and/or top stabiliser bushes. You'll find that fitting a bottom stabiliser will help enormously.
Posted: Sep 30, 2013 06:45 AM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Banging When reversing
i think the clue is in the word 'sensibly'. as everything is rubber mounted, as previosu posting, try changing the subframe mounts and stabiliser bushes. Also change the engine mounts as well.
If it still does it then for pete's sake slow down before you damage someone else's pride and joy!
Posted: Sep 15, 2008 12:39 PM
Ian
6 posts
Joined: 05/07/2005 10:33:20
Location: Wokingham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Exhaust Fixings for 90 Cooper
Hi Simon Just read your post. I have a 90 Cooper with RC40 side exit exhaust. It was fixed with the early type rubber bush mounted metal hangers but both the rear ones have just failed completely today! My exhaust is a complete stainless steel system (Catalyst removed) and was fitted by Minispeed as part of a stage 1 kit. The single rear box has a hanger arm for using the later type rubber mounts, but Minispeed fixed with the more rigid older type brackets, I also had an ultimate engine stabiliser bar fitted because it was recommended to stop the engine movement damaging the exhaust system. Im guessing, but if you use the later type rubber hangers the system would be less solidily fixed at the rear and may put more stress on the engine end of the system. I suspect that it ultimately depends on how heavy your rear box is, and what state of tune the engine is in (which tends to increase the backwards and forwards movement) unless you fit a stabiliser. Whilst it might be easier to fit using the hangers and rubber loops I suspect it will potentially move around more under the car. A quick call to one of the mini specialists will no doubt get you the definitive answer. Ian
Posted: Feb 08, 2006 06:54 PM
jag_clarke
re
sounds like top engine steady bushes have had it (exhaust manifold/exhaust hits bulkhead as engine rocks). grab engine rocker cover and push it back and falwards when cold. if it moves much more the few mm then the rubbers have had it. order 4 new rubber bushes unbolt and replace bushes. should take about an hour on late minis for diyier as its bit cramped. u may need bit of help to push on engine to line things up after. main ones to replace are engine end (fail most frequently due to heat) but if u can both ends all the better.
http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=37854&title=ENG%20STABILISER%204%20BUSH%20KIT...
Posted: May 19, 2009 01:36 AM
Joined: 15/12/2008 09:23:03
Location: GASCOGNE France
MPI engine steady bars.
I'd like to attach my engine to the car a bit more so that they travel around together. Is there a kit for an additional top stabiliser bar for the 1300MPI ? The upper bar has suffered a previous repair where whoever did it drilled through into the engine core. I've fixed the resulting leak that took a while to find, but even with the new hard bushes top and bottom, I've still got a fair bit of movement. I'm wondering if the hole in the bulkhead bracket isn't either oval or enlarged.....
Why does the lower bracket have a slot instead of a hole - surely this allows some play?
Thanks in advance. John
Posted: May 19, 2009 11:19 AM
wasntme
46 posts
Joined: 26/03/2006 13:11:22
Stabilser bar polyutherene bush melted.....
Fitted polyutherene stabiliser bushes to my car around 3 months ago, however i've just noticed that the bush that sits half on the engine head/block has melted off....
My mini has not been overheating and i bought them from mini spares!
Any ideas as to why this is happening?
Posted: Oct 22, 2007 08:27 PM
clunking from underneath middle of frame
I think you must have the rod type of remote gearchange - so there's a rod that comes out of the gearbox, runs back along the transmission tunnel, and goes into the bottom of the gear lever housing. It's this housing that is supported on two rubber bobbins that can move around and bang on the floor. Easy enough to check when you're underneath the car.
Because of the way the engine moves forwards and backwards as you press on the accelerator and lift off, the whole gear lever assembly can go up and down. But it can also affect the front subframe and the top engine stabilizer. The front subframe is bolted to the floor in the footwell area so if any of those bolts are loose, or if the rubber mounting itself has come apart, you will get a thump or a bang as the engine moves. You should be able to see the bolts and check that they're tight when you're underneath the car, though checking the rubber mounting may not be too easy - I would suggest trying to move the subframe with a large screwdriver placed between the body and the subframe.
The top engine stabilizer is easy to check - just push the engine backwards and forwards. It should move a little bit, as it's located by rubber bushes, but not so much that the end of the stabilizer bangs against the bulkhead. From your description of the sound, I don't think it can be the stabilizer.
Posted: Apr 21, 2023 03:05 PM